Since its earliest beginnings, the menu at The Lion has slowly shifted away from heavier, béchamel-laden recipes in favor of a lighter, citrus-oriented approach, while still showcasing stately dishes that appeal to our basic senses of sophisticated food. The preparation of the traditional Roman Jewish Artichoke alla Giudia appetizer stands out in particular, with the lightly fried leaves served like a lovely flower balancing the creaminess of the artichoke hearts with fresh lemon and herbs. The rest of chef and owner John DeLucie's menu reflects this kind of simple, yet high-end food that you might find in the expansive dining room of a country club. The Pan Seared Scottish Salmon, while inconsistently cooked throughout, is well-portioned and at least has a crisped and perfectly salted skin, pairing nicely with the sweet bed of roasted fennel, dill seeds, and blood orange sauce on which it sits.