An easygoing Italian spot with decent food and an older, more casual atmosphere than nearby neighborhood establishments.
Despite its simple, comforting space with beige, plaster wash walls and light wood accents, Grano Trattoria suffers from an inconsistency of execution across a menu that is otherwise diverse and well-priced, with pasta dishes averaging around $15. While the appetizers were strong overall, the Gnocchi with ricotta di bufala and roasted bell peppers was unbearably gummy in the few places it wasn't grainy, and the creamy sauce overpowered the only successful notes of pepper in the dish. The Rigatoni alla Bolognese was much more appealing, although also sauce-laden and one-dimensional, leaving one feeling a little underwhelmed at the end of the meal.
For better or for worse, the kitchen at Grano is clearly not trying to reinvent the wheel of Italian food, although the service and hospitality of the staff is extraordinarily friendly, clearly dedicated to providing the best possible experience for their diners. Even if it means closing the front door on a chilly evening every time it sticks open, the level of attentiveness from the staff is nicely appreciated, making Grano a pleasant choice for a plate of pasta that resembles a home-cooked meal, variables and all.
21 Greenwich Ave
New York, NY 10014
New York, NY 10014
