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Craftbar

900 Broadway
New York, NY 10003

· Union Square,New American

The most casual (and dare I say, the least interesting) of Tom Colicchio's restaurant portfolio. A relatively inexpensive menu with the recklessness of bar food and the thoughtfulness of someone so experienced in the discipline contribute to Craftbar's lasting appeal and energy.

Because it shares part of its name with Colicchio's exemplary flagship restaurant, the ways in which the food at Craftbar pale in comparison to Craft become jarringly apparent almost immediately upon dining. Among the main courses, which read like an obsessively American dream about salt and fat and include a Veal Breast Roulade, Buttermilk Fried Young Chicken, and Cassoulet with confit duck leg and foie gras, the Veal Ricotta Meatballs and Capellini stand out, with a thick basil and plum tomato sauce that reflects Colicchio's commitment to seasonal seasoning (how about that!) and innovative, farm-friendly vegetables and spices.